Glassy day

You know already that one great day is never followed by another. (Rule of Surfing #4, right behind the rule that the more important the engagement you cancel to surf, the worse the surfing will be.) But today wasn't bad. I was pretty much getting the takeoffs, still had some pearls, but mostly not. There were so many little waves and they were so easy to catch. Plus the water really, really deserved the word glassy. It was hard to make myself come in after two hours.

Rides? Well, I got up a couple times but couldn't really balance and/or the board just stopped moving (those things are related aren't they?) Once I was up, once again the board and my body parts were moving in different directions. I wasn't one with the board, let alone the wave. I couldn't really count those as rides but I finally got a real, in synch one at the end; it worked because I bent my knees. Yeah, I can't bend them far, but far enough. I finally figured out to do that after watching how far down everyone else was on their boards. No way I'll ever get down like a sixteen year old boy again, but this grandma can get down a little.