2 for 2

I tried to put W.'s advice---mostly, to move forward on the board---to work today. I thought I was going to do well. But no. Time after time, when I caught a wave, my nose went under and I was flung off the board. That tells me I need to be farther back, from what I understand. I was doing exactly what W. told me, but it wasn't working. I'd get in position as best I could, paddle, watch my nose go under and next thing I knew I had been knocked off the board, somersaulted once or twice and was in the water with my board upside down and floating behind me.

Something else could cause that too, with or without being too far forward, which is catching the wave too late.

I did get one ride before the first hour was up, but I have no idea how I did it.

The funniest thing about today was that E. was out surfing by herself next to me and, because she didn't recognize me with my new board, was actually friendly! With the surf burka on, and not a hair showing, she thought I was someone else. Well, boards are the way we mostly recognize each other without more cues. She smiled and gave me some encouragement and advice. I just nodded, stunned that she was actually speaking in complete sentences to me and more than one at that---usually I can't even drag a syllable out of her mouth when I say hi. That is, when she knows it's me.

It gave me an idea of what it would be like out here if I was just me, and not this horrible person created by K. in everyone's mind. Prejudice is such a stupid thing. What else can make someone who doesn't even know you hate you? This just shows what an idiot E. is.

I thought of saying something snotty to her, like "Why are you talking to me now?" but didn't. I think that later on she recognized me by my crap surfing style. (Hers isn't so great either.)

The thing is, her advice was also not so hot. She told me to stand up immediately, exactly the opposite of what W. told me yesterday: wait until you've paddled down the face, then stand up. I think he's right and she's wrong. I have tried standing up immediately and it just can't work. I did notice, though, that she was doing it and it worked for her. Can it be that with surfing, like sex, there's not one way to do it? Then what to believe, what to do?

Once I started getting back farther on the board than W. said, and also paddling for waves earlier, I did manage some good takeoffs. And I got one more long ride---though why I went right instead of left or straight, I have no clue.

That's two rides in two hours, better than par for me.

I really do need a lesson, though. I know what to work on: playing around with wave timing, maybe doing things wrong on purpose to see what happens when I take off way too late (maybe there's a way to make it not such a disaster) or too early, trying to find out how much play and forgiveness, if any, there is between the two. Eventually I'll just humbly go to the surf instructor I first approached three and a half years ago, and explain: There have been times between then and now when I did know how to surf. There have been times when I didn't. Right now is a time when I don't. So teach me like I'm beginning all over again, and maybe I will get it back.