Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Back

You know I went out again yesterday, and today. I wasn't anywhere near where I was a month ago, but I have begun the long slow process of trying to get back there. At least I got some waves. Yesterday I got two rides in two hours, today I got two in one and a half hours. I am at least up to where I was several months ago. Does that make sense? I have to be patient, keep reminding myself that surfing is not logical, not cumulative, and "learning" is not a helpful concept to apply to something that takes place in split-second increments.

6 Comments:

At Friday, March 02, 2007 3:37:00 PM, Blogger dave rich said...

good on ya for going out and trying it again. I know there has been plenty of times I have wanted to give up. I havent surfed since november I think......

 
At Monday, March 05, 2007 3:20:00 AM, Blogger Bunty said...

Chin up - keep at it!

 
At Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:26:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

You rock!

 
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