The same ocean twice

You never step into the same ocean twice, even if it's the same exact spot. Different day, different waves. Today's were more of the Texas waves I expected. No one was out at the last spot I surfed, and it didn't look too promising, so I took a leisurely drive down the long beach to check out a couple other spots.

By midafternoon I'd gotten to Port Aransas, the next town down. As I got there another car with a surfboard pulled up. "You going in?" "I guess so."
"Yeah, the sun's out." And it was a beautiful day, though not as warm.

Had a mellow session with that guy, then a gramps (maybe the same one from the other day?). After the first guy left, just me and Gramps. I was getting waves and getting rides but they didn't go very fast or very far. He was getting faster and farther, probably because he was bending his knees more. I tried to work on that, and also making my "popups" more like popups. At least on these waves I can make progress. In just these few days I have gotten much better at using various body parts to keep my balance. I lasted a long time but I could not outlast Gramps. The old geezer has stamina.

I have to say that the surf report here is really whack. Waist high? Seems like they call it waist high no matter what it is. No way was it even close to waist high. Back home we'd call this knee high. What are these Texans, dwarves?

Tomorrow back to hoods and boots and 50 degree water; how can I bear it?