Remnants of a Thanksgiving swell

The past two days were huge, double overhead and head high, and today's small waves are the remnants.

Though the waves were smaller, they had the same shape: closed out and dumping. I sucked ass even on the two foot waves. I either went for the wave too early and missed it, or took off too late and got thrown off my board. I think the back of the board pitched forward and flipped me over, but there's no way to tell. Next thing I knew I was in the water and my board was floating in front of me, fins up, nose pointing toward shore. If the board just flipped over wouldn't the nose be pointing the other way?

Either my timing was fatally off, or I got scared as I saw I was catching the wave in the criticial split second window and did not get my weight distributed right on the board. I didn't think there was such a thing as putting too much weight on the back of the board but maybe there is