Me Bizarro Surfer
There was a time when I would think twice about going in the water once the temperature dropped below forty degrees. Those days are long over.
It hadn't hit 40 when I got out early (for me) this morning, but the sun was out and it was beautiful.
There were teeny, tiny little lines coming through and nobody else in sight. I wasn't cold at all. I went out right in front of my house and caught lots of waves and on many of them, got up. I didn't get going very fast because the waves lacked power, but I got going fast enough.
Later I found out Surfline called it flat today. This seems to be a pattern; I do well only on days officially considered flat. This makes me Bizarro Surfer (you know, after the Bizarro world in the old Superman comics, where everything was the opposite of real life). I'm the opposite of a real surfer, since I can surf only when there are no waves. I'm not sure I like this. But the upside is that I get to do a lot of solo surfing.