And then sometimes, for no reason, it just clicks.
I wouldn't have thought it would be today. I woke up tired but dragged my butt out of bed early because I thought I was going to meet up with W. (who ended up sleeping in, the slacker). I had a headache and my muscles ached. I would not have put any money on it being a good day.
But the waves were the perfect size and shape for me, the water was beautiful, peace reigned among a sizeable crowd, and I just got it about how to position myself on the board.
So I caught most of the waves I went for with no problem, but it was still a problem getting up. I'd stay up for a few seconds, then fall. Unfortunately, with the crowd my wave count was small. Even trying to be super careful about not getting in anyone's way I alienated Q., a regular surfer who seems to go back and forth between liking me and not being able to stand me. I understand why he finds me annoying. I really do.
I should never, ever go for a wave within one mile of Q. He makes every wave he goes for. On the other hand, I kept pulling back from other people who I knew were not even going to make it---and they didn't. In that circumstance I think I should have gone, but I didn't dare risk it. It was so frustrating---I kept pulling back for one woman, an unfamiliar face, on a purple board, and she kept blowing the waves.
That plus getting cold meant I got out earlier than I would have liked, which I guess is a good way to get out after all---when you're still having fun.