Still alive

Yesterday I got into some trouble surfing the main peak. It wasn't terribly crowded, but crowded enough that there was competition. After huddling down the line in the retard section all weekend, I decided to paddle out at the best spot after M., a really good female surfer I'm friendly with (T.'s wife). Lots of times I watch what she's doing to help me improve. We'd just had a nice chat on the beach. Well into the session I ran into her board. We were both on the same wave. I actually did not see her take off, but we caught the wave at exactly the same time and ended up speeding on the wave rail to rail. She was standing up, I didn't dare try it. Instead I tried to get out of her way, but it was impossible; the force of the wave kept our boards in lockstep til we reached the sand.

Of course she and her husband were mightily pissed and she screamed at me: "Drop in on me again and I'll kill you!" Ouch!

I skulked out of the water and off the beach, not wanting my face to be seen, imagining everyone was talking about what an idiot I am. Because I am. I don't deserve to be on the beach on one of the last sunny days of summer.

I skulked back around five p.m. and they were both still there and not mad. Whew.

The thing is, today, on less crowded waves, I was on the same wave as another guy (and I ABSOLUTELY had the right of way on this one, if anyone was dropping in it was him) and when I saw him near me, was able to get out of his way. I actually turned the board the way I wanted to! I am working on that and it doesn't always work. But I am really proud of myself for doing it today when it counted. Why not yesterday? I dunno.

I remember reading somewhere (perhaps here) someone saying: "If you can't get a controlled ride on a longboard after two years, it's time to give up trying to surf." It's three years and I surely can't do it consistently, but I am learning.