Crap session

I have moved! Woke up today in my new home and it was sunny and hot. The waves looked manageable. I went and grabbed breakfast (the stove wasn't on) and by the time I got suited up and in the water the waves seemed to have grown a foot.

There were no lulls and my attempts to get out stalled flat when I saw people riding five foot faces. Yes, it would have been hard but I could've gotten out---then what?

I lost heart. To make matters worse, I was saddled with Barney again. He couldn't get out either but he was happily riding whitewater and doing far better than me. The ultimate humiliation.

Then the day turned rainy and cool.

Amazing how a crap session can ruin your whole day, especially when you missed the good waves by an hour or two, the weather's depressing, and you've got nagging doubts about whether you really gave it your all. I tried to resist the ruination of the day, but to no avail. Amazing, too, how an hour of getting creamed can make you more tired than two hours of having fun.