Monday, August 28, 2006

M y biggest day ever

Today was the biggest day I have ever been out in comfortably, and the biggest day I've ever actually surfed. It was solidly chest high, with some bombs that looked bigger. At no point was I ever scared or hesitant. I just went out, timing it carefully or turtle diving. I'm done with that cowering in the shorebreak.

Since this was the biggest day in months, bigger and better than the "Big Wave Day" I wrote about, the lineup was packed. Three o'clock Monday afternoon, and 25 people out.

The first wave I caught, I took off well, go my feet on the board, but couldn't stand up. On the second wave, I managed to get up and ride it all the way in. Takeoff was good and I had a solid platform, it was just a matter of getting my balance. On another wave, I took off too late and totally went over the falls, eliciting a respectful "Did you get killed? That was a big wave," from the next guy in the lineup.

However, on what proved to be my last wave, I took off at the same time as, and collided with, a shortboarder. Up to this day I have said that in four years I have never yet destroyed a board. As in, "Can I please borrow your board? I've never destroyed one yet." Now I can't quite say that. No, her board was not destroyed, but a fin was gone; and my board has a huge chunk out of the rail where the fin hit it.

No one was hurt, but she was pissed as hell and stormed out of the water. Can you storm out of water? I guess you can.

I honestly don't know whose fault it was, if anyone's. Yes, we took off on the same wave, but that happens on practically every wave at this break; usually only one person makes it, or if they both make it they stay out of each other's way. If they are friends no one ever thinks it's a big deal.

I cannot say that she had priority, because it seemed we had equal priority. This is not a point where waves break in only one spot. Our waves, in fact, usually break in two spots at once and the waves meet in the middle.

What should I do? What is proper surf etiquette? Should I find out who she is and offer to pay for her board (as well as my own, which is going to cost over $75?)

I don't like that we had a collision, but even with that, an exhilarating day. I was sorry to have to get out of the water, but there was no way to ride the board with that gash in it.

14 Comments:

At Monday, August 28, 2006 9:29:00 PM, Blogger dave rich said...

In this situation or breaking configuration, the person who is closest to where the wave begins to break has priority, or the peak position. Im not saying you dont know this stuff, but it is VITAL that you learn it and LIVE by it. Surfboards are dangerous and expensive objects. Thats how it always is, the "only 1 person makes it". You need to forget every and i mean every notion of people sharing a wave,its BS. When you paddle battle with someone, where ever the wave pitches first, thats the peak, and whoever is closest (this also applies even if you are maybe dozens of feet or yards from it), takes the wave. Now this is where you a)back off, or b) in super crowded situation, you can be a super asshole and keep paddling. This will put major pressure on the person who "has the peak", and they might miss the take off or jack it up, in which you can continue paddling into the wave because now YOU are the closest. just be super careful out there. I would contact her and discuss it with her, but make sure you dont get taken advantage for as well. But yes, paying for her repairs would be in order. :( sorry g-ma. good to hear your surfing with the best of them now :)

 
At Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:39:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I disagree.
The ocean, especially at a beach break, is unpredicatble. I'm all for safety and sharing, but stuff happens. If you put yourself out there, you accept the risks.

If I dinged up a friend's board I would definitley offer to pay. But this sounds like a 50/50 call.

Maybe the SB was wave hogging?

 
At Thursday, August 31, 2006 3:26:00 PM, Blogger jchack said...

You can't both have priority and the fact that you don't know who had makes you the guilty party. I believe that you should cover the cost of the repair. Keep in mind that very few people ever do this; it's just the right thing to do.

I could not agree more with Dave, no sharing, no 'party' waves, and definitely no trying guess which way someone is going to go (unless it's a perfect A-Frame and you are on the other side of the peak). These are all really bad ideas.

Having said all that; good for you for getting out there and surfing. Don't beat yourself up over the ding. Get it fixed, do the right thing, and get back in the water.

Be well.

 
At Thursday, August 31, 2006 7:29:00 PM, Blogger Grandma said...

All things considered, I have decided to pay for the repair. I was able to find out whose board it was by asking around. I doubt that I've made a friend out of her, but perhaps I've gained some respect.

The bad part is no one will let me borrow a board again!

 
At Friday, September 01, 2006 7:43:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Are there any peaks or peelers or sections in Texas? Because there is definitely room for more than one surfer on those kind of waves, and rarely does anyone have a wave to themselves. Ever surfed a place like Malibu, Doheny, San Onofre, Waikiki or Kewalos ? Wave hogs continually put themselves in the priority position & you could wait around all day trying to get a wave.

One person to a wave is a surf magazine fantasy.

It's crowded out there and surfers need share (take turns) maneuver their boards, kick out and above all, practice aloha.

 
At Friday, September 01, 2006 11:12:00 AM, Blogger jchack said...

Did I say ass hat?

Dear Anonymous,
Let's talk about mailbu; I have seen folks like you pulled off their boards for the kind of behavior you are advocating. Surfing isn't easy and you don't get a pass to be a donkey just because you are new or can't do it or whatever your issue is.

Here's the deal, if you take off on someones shoulder, then you are a dick. It's a very simple equation.

Sorry for the side discussion Grandma, but it needed to be said.

Hey, good for you for doing the right thing. I'll bet over time, you two will get to be close in the water.

 
At Friday, September 01, 2006 5:42:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Dude: name calling=no aloha

 
At Saturday, September 02, 2006 3:09:00 AM, Blogger dave rich said...

I agree with Jeffery. Sorry anon, but it is NOT a fantasy. I can honestly tell you that here in TX, we do not do the 60's picture of 6 guys on longboards to 1 wave. Both people are to blame, the wave hog, and the person not being assertive enough. I have learned that sometimes, you need to paddle battle to establish your emminent domain, your right to be there. Thw wave hogs need to learn to back off a little, and that not everyone can just charge and battle for every wave like Kelly Slater or some crap. I dont paddle battle much here in TX, only when some guy first paddling out comes over and starts grabbing first waves out of the sets without recognizing priority and some sort of a time senority situation. Thats just assholish. As for the perfect A-frame comment, I couldnt agree more. So many people do this, especially some people I know. Situation : wave is coming, me and others are jockeying, im close, so is he but maybe im closer whatever "hey hey, you going left or right?????". That question should have NEVER happened. What if my left closes out, and I cut back onto the nice reforming shoulder going right? I have had it happen to me, and it wasa vital lesson. Sorry again grandma, but since you are in doubt, more than likely it is your fault. But then again, when you first start surfing, everything gets blurry, I know my wave rides still do.

 
At Wednesday, September 06, 2006 3:26:00 PM, Blogger jchack said...

I would be honored if you carried that little perjorative out into the wide wide world Oceaman.

 
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