Well and truly surfing
Drum roll please...
To continue the movie theme, the other best film ever made (forgive me, I took cinema studies in college) is called Distant Voices, Still Lives and is even more obscure than Barry Lyndon. If I have encouraged any of you to see either of these films, this blog will have served a useful purpose. Today a line from Distant Voices came to me as I was in the water. Long story short, it's the tale of a working class British family, and in a scene set at the end of the oldest daughter's wedding, she turns to her new husband and says in awe, "We're well and truly married now."
And the big news is...
GRANDMA'S GOT IT!
I am well and truly surfing now! Today was my best day EVER. I got waves, got several rides and I mean really got riding with some speed. After my first wave in which I got up but didn't really go anywhere, I started getting up with my feet more towards the front of the board, which really seemed to help. Once I was up I tried to keep going by visualizing what I have seen other surfers do and imitating their stance. I just, well, tried to look like them. It worked! I kept going and didn't fall. I rode the waves all the way and had enough time to try to turn. And I actually did turn. That is, I think I was actually riding down the face of the wave for the second and third and fourth and fifth time.
I can't wait to try it again tomorrow.
6 Comments:
sweet!
yaaaay!
told you!! you just have to stick with it. trust me there have been moments when i wanted to smash my board in half and throw it in the trash.
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