Drama kings and queens

It doesn't get any more hot, crowded, or crazy than it did this Sunday at our beach.

Actually, the surfing part was OK. After nearly two hours of trying, I got one good long ride. It was the second time I have ever gone across the wave and once again, I went right without trying or knowing why. After spending some time having a discussion with one of the good surfers, it seems to me it may somehow be because, being goofy foot, that's the only way I can go and still face the beach. If I went left, I would be facing the ocean. Psychologically that's a challenge. Even when I swim, I always want to be looking towards the shore. And that's true even though I am a superb swimmer who could swim home from the middle of the ocean if I had to. It's a security thing, an orientation thing. I just want to see land. It will take quite a bit of effort to learn to look out to sea.

He spent some more time explaining what you must do with your heels and toes in order to turn intentionally, but that part was way beyond me.

I also enjoyed hanging out with T., who is, next to me, the oldest female surfer at our beach. We have a lot in common and could probably help each other out. It was fun being out in the water with her and I was stoked that she saw my ride and cheered me on!

However...

Out of the water things really got out of hand by the end of the weekend. I won't go into all the details but there was high drama, blood, and betrayal. I ended up taking an expensive taxi ride home from the beach in just a bathing suit, shorts and flip flops, leaving glasses, clothes, and other essentials of life behind, to be picked up later along with the ongoing soap opera of Rockaway.

Was that one ride, however desired and exhilirating, worth all the drama? Absolutely not.

It's the height of summer and I cannot wait for February when things cool down.