Happy Fourth!

Today was the first day of my fourth year trying to learn to surf.

I started it out with a lesson from M., the new surf instructor. Actually that was pretty much a waste of time, but at least she is nice and didn't charge me a lot. She didn't tell me anything I didn't already know. In a nutshell it was this:

1) She watched the video and said it makes no difference how you get up. You can use your knees, butt, hands, toes, anything you want.

2) I should angle my board in the direction the wave is breaking and that way I don't have to worry about "learning to turn", I can do it before I learn to stand up. (This is actually helpful, but it's the same thing K. already told me.)

3) The reason I fall is "you can't ride whitewater" and "you can't ride straight". This last makes no sense to me, as I see people doing both of these things every day, and all the surf instructors and surf books say you have to learn to stand and ride whitewater straight to the beach before trying to ride waves.

4) "Stop being so negative, you can surf."

5) "If someone's in front of you and you want to take off, just do it; they'll get out of the way."

Well, at least the lesson got me out in the water fairly early on a Fourth of July morning. And M., who works in the surf shop, has quickly become a popular person, so it was easy being with her to get into the holiday mood. I think it was one of the most,if not the most, fun times surfing I've ever had, and the reason was not only the surfing, but the whole vibe. Everybody and their mother was out and even though it was crowded all the faces were friendly and most were familiar. It was like a big party in the water. I was getting surf tips and trading barbs with a few guys, some I've known for years, others I've just really gotten to know since the beginning of this summer, some I just met today. (I was the only woman out pretty much the whole morning.) Waves were tricky to catch today and when they came along at least three people were on each one, but no one minded; they were all party waves. I don't know how long I stayed out and didn't care; I guess it was much longer than usual, but I didn't care how tired I'd be later, I was having so much fun.

M. kept saying "I just want to see you on a wave" (famous last words of all my surf instructors). But finally I did get one, and I did get up, and I did get a ride; and she cheered for me, and later on the beach B. congratulated me: "I saw you get up!" That was really great. I was surprised but glad that he was so nice. He's one of the surfers with the most seniority and he and his family are always at the center of the beach hangout action. (K. says it's possible to actually have an intelligent conversation with him. Gotta try that sometime.)

I got another ride, too, later.

Frankly if C. had been there the whole day would have been spoiled, but he wasn't. His best friends were all so sweet to me and I'd been worried they might not be, anymore. That's a great relief. They seem genuinely nice (of course, so did he at first). You always worry that guys will talk shit about you to their friends, don't you, girls? C. didn't show up until late afternoon, and the thunder and lightning showed up with him and cleared the beach.

I just barely stayed up long enough to see some of the fireworks.