Thursday, June 08, 2006

A good north wind

...it turns out, is the cure for bad knees.

The waves on the cam looked good today and I just went. Cancelled two appointments. I mean, I had an appointment for a massage today (with someone really good) and I cancelled it.

In addition this was the first time I ever intentionally went surfing in the rain.

It was cold and miserable out and as I was on the train I was thinking: I am either crazy or inspired. I am either going to surf today or I am going to quit.

I got two good rides. I mean, all the way to the beach. I mean, long enough that I even started thinking that turning might be possible.

I wished someone was there to see me, but I was alone (that is, alone with seven other people).
So, instead of jumping up and yelling, I just pretended like this was just another ride, and went back out to try for more.

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