One hour, one wave

I did something today I've never done before: bailed on a session. Like I said, I always make myself stay out for two hours, no matter what.

Today had looked good earlier but by the time I got to the beach the sea was like a washing machine. Wind had been on it for hours. Nevertheless I sortied out. It was a lot harder getting out than it looked. Somehow, I caught a wave and rode it in. It was a real ride with a real wave with some power to it. I had no idea how that happened, but I was thrilled, especially because it was my first wave of the day and the first time in months I'd been on that board.

I thought of ending the session right there (you know my theory that after you get your wave of the day you won't get another). But I didn't, partly because some other idiot had just followed me into the water and if he was out, conditions couldn't be so bad. But even though he made it past the breakers, he wasn't getting rides; he was mostly sitting there looking over his shoulder for a rideable piece of a wave fragment.

I spend the rest of the session just trying to get out, and not making it. Lulls were nonexistent. It's been so long since I had to turtle dive my longboard that I had practically forgotten how to do it, and I didn't want to chance it. But this was a turtle dive day; every time I'd almost make it I'd be forced back. Gradually my will to make it out sapped since the conditions were so bad. Make it out for what?

Well, I'd gotten a good ride on a wave over one foot; most sessions I don't achieve that, even in two hours. I decided to call it a success, even after only one wave and only one hour.

I quit early.