Explain this to me please

I love low tide. It's the perfect time for me to try to surf around here, but I rarely manage dead low when the waves roll in for such a long time that I have time to think of what to do.

Beautiful, warm, sunny day, no one out. Going into the water I thought I could actually enjoy myself today. But it was not to be.

It was a completely unproductive day, a waste of time, and totally unfun.

I thought the waves were smaller today, but as my two hours wore on they either got or seemed to get back up to waist high. I couldn't tell because there was no one else out to measure them against.

I did manage one perfect takeoff. I'm always surprised (or at least lately) when I don't get separated from my board at takeoff. I don't pearl much anymore, but the water often pushes me off the board before I can attempt to stand---not much of an improvement.

I didn't get up even with the perfect takeoff. I think I spent too much time being surprised that it was perfect.

After that things didn't go well. In frustration I got out and tried to go over the popup, slow-mo, on the beach. What I discovered is that sliding my foot up the board when it's turned sideways results in my foot being sideways when it reaches mid-board: however, it's just about impossible to put weight on it at that angle, especially enough weight to be able to use that foot to push myself up. I can only put weight on it when it's facing forward so I can bend my ankle back somewhat.

Try it yourself: can you do it? With your foot turned on its side you're really only able to use your arms to push up, and it's incredibly difficult.

My whole big problem is that I can't see a way to let go with your arms until your feet are on the board---yet while my arms are fully extended and holding on there is just not enough room to get my legs under me! Is this not a problem for anyone else? I mean, I have long legs, but not abnormally so!

If I can't figure this out, I am just wasting all my time and might as well quit.

If someone is going to tell me that in fact you have to let go with your arms before your feet touch the board, that means in essence that there is a period of time if only a split second when neither arms nor legs are in contact with the board as it speeds down the line (you know, kinda like a horse when it's running----no one thought the horse had all its feet off the ground at once until the invention of high speed photography). If that is the case, then I unequivocally, universally, thoroughgoingly give up attempting to surf. I am not an acrobat. Not on land, and not on sea.