Monday, January 23, 2006

The best ride of my life

Need I say more?? :)

It happened yesterday. I stood up and rode all the way to the beach.

At this break, that's about a six-second ride for the best of us. It's the longest of my life.

It was so great, I wanted to go out today again. K. and I went to check the waves, and they were chest to head high. We actually stood there for several minutes thinking about whether to go in. We both actually kind of thought we could handle it. Any other day, it would have been a no-brainer: Head high. No go.

But because of yesterday....

I still think that I need to get confident on waist high waves before I try bigger ones.

However, as K. pointed out, on any given head high day, there are "littler" waves that are only waist high. She was trying to talk me into going for those, while convincing me we could avoid getting bopped by the big ones. But at this shifting beach break, that's pretty tricky.

I'm definitely willing to try bigger waves---just not that big.

10 Comments:

At Tuesday, January 24, 2006 12:03:00 PM, Blogger dave rich said...

hey i found ur blog through other surf blogs i have been running across. this is very intersting reading your blog. i am gaining so much insight into the world of women surfers. I just started surfing around im guessing 1 1/2 years ago, down here in houston tx. I remember my transition into head high waves, SOOO SCARY! but now, i hate going out if its less than chest high! i ride a shortboard and there is something about the power of bigger waves that just moves the board with so much speed. when i took my first surf trip to costa rica this summer, my first day out was pretty close to double overhead (10ft and + on cleanup sets), jacking up and huge scary drop ins. By the end of that trip, i had several way overhead waves under my belt, and allthough still very unnerving, it was such a rush! i still prefer head high to a foot overhead though for overall fun. did that suit really make that big of a difference? texas gets its best surf in hurricane summers (still long flat spells though) and dead in the winter and i hate cold water, i surf HORRIBLE. my suit is an old like 3/2 i think, but around 4 years old. I want to buy a 4/3 but i hear paddling in them is ridiculous but if i want to get near the water anytime soon, i have to be warm to enjoy it. i look forward to reading more amazing posts on ur blog! ps. surf camps pretty much always suck, do ur own trips, its much better.

 
At Tuesday, January 24, 2006 1:46:00 PM, Blogger Grandma said...

Hey Dave,
I've surfed (or tried to!) in Texas. Not much fun with tiny wavelets while I was there (last February and June), but I would like to try again sometime. Whenever I get the chance I go to Texas, it's always fun even if there are no waves.

 
At Tuesday, January 24, 2006 3:45:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

glad to see you're getting waves back east!

from the west coast,
solosurferguy

 
At Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:21:00 AM, Blogger Grandma said...

Hey Suzy,
Glad to hear from you! It's inspiring to hear from another grandma-like surfer. Keep reading, you'll see what summer is like here...basically, crowded as hell because we are restricted to a very small area. It's our "surfing beach" and we fought hard to get it but it's only four city blocks wide.
However the weather is great and you can wear a bikini or shorts, and it's fun, so come on down sometime!

 
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