Grandmas Gone Surfing
Right for me
11:30 am. Wake up.
I see no way of ever making it up for dawn patrol, or even before noon. That's because on a day I've been out trying to surf, I get so tired I need 12 hours of sleep. I can't understand why this is so, when I haven't really surfed and so haven't used my arms and legs (and especially on a day like yesterday when there was absolutely no paddling). To make it up for DP, I'd have to be in bed by six p.m. I did this when I was at surf camp. But it's hard to do in real life.
1:30 pm. I call C., even though I said I'd call him in the morning and it's now afternoon. I can't get through.
2:00 pm. I check out the waves---as small as yesterday. I sit on the beach awhile awaiting low tide (5 pm). Though it's the middle of the day in the middle of the week in the middle of April, whole families are out: young girls in bikinis, dogs running, kids playing. (Shouldn't they be in school?) I don't have a bikini on but it's warm enough for one. Where's my umbrella drink? I'm still going to wear the 6/4, though. The only concession I've been able to make to the arrival of spring is to switch my lobster gloves for the five-fingers.
5:00. I shoulda known. I have never had two consecutive good surf days ever. There is this law (a corollary perhaps of the famous Murphy's law or the law that the more important the engagement you cancel to go surfing the crappier the waves will be) that every good day is followed by a sucky one. I can't blame the waves, they are only slightly less well-formed than yesterday's, probably from the wind being on it all day. I can't get any rides and I can't get up. Once again my right (front) knee is coming up behind my extended right elbow (got that?) pointing in the wrong direction and making it impossible to get up. I'm not trying or not trying to do that, it's just happening.
I think the waves are (as the pharmaceutical ads like to say) right for me. I decide that ankle-high is enough to try to handle and I should never go out in anything bigger. This, after three years, is where I am. Well, the bright side is that I won't have to worry about crowds or people dropping in on me---I'll practically have the "waves" to myself.
posted by Grandma @ 4/19/2006 03:46:00 PM
3 comments
3 Comments:
You must go out in the bigger stuff. The little stuff is actually, in my opinion, harder to surf in. You paddle either for nothing or for a two second ride. With bigger waves, you paddle less and ride more. And riding them makes you a better surfer. So, you have no choice. You will (WILL) start thinking about going out the next time the waves are at least waist high. Even if you get punished, you'll learn something.
surf sister is right. I learned to surf in sloppy texas mush and now when a good swell comes through, I can maximize it and ride as much as I can. Dont worry about that popup thing. You will have more conifdence when you are trying to surf with your bud "C". It makes you push yourself harder when you surf with a better surfer. Also this might be a slight shortcut for you into the "accepted" at your beach. Read "In Search of Captain Zero" by Allen Wiesbecker to learn about all the detailed intracacies of lineups, rotations, and the locals and its just a good hilarious read. As for getting punished on a waist high wave, it wont be too bad. Im not sure if you have ever been tossed, but just remember to reeeelllaaaaaxxxx. You wont be under for more than 10 seconds, I promise. I took a 10ft wave on the head in costa rica that ripped my board right out of my hands and I wasnt under for more than 15 seconds max. never give up on surfing because you will always have days like you did the other day. in the water... surfing unstopable, amazing views, wonderful people. Nothing I have felt in my life so far can replace that feeling.
I've heard that before, that the little stuff is harder. You're probably right. The advantage of the smaller stuff is that you move more slowly and have more time to think about and execute your moves.
Also, the distance from breaking wave to the shore is the same no matter how big the wave is. Doesn't the longer ride thing only apply if you know how to turn? Turning is so far off my radar, cause before you can turn, you've got to balance and stay up long enough to execute the turn. That seems years away. Also, I've never read anywhere or seen a video about how to do it. I hope when the time comes there will be someone who can explain it to me.
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