Monday, June 05, 2006

In search of Betty

I'm on the DL for a while due to a knee injury. It happened in the stupidest possible way (I was walking down the street a block from my house and tripped over nothing) and in the worst possible spot on my bad knee. Both knees are bruised and swollen so I'm out of the water til they stop hurting.

As the fourth anniversary of the day I started trying to surf approaches, I feel a little desperate, out of options. To keep myself going, I'm trying to come up with a plan (other than continuing to go out and flail about).

An old friend told me about this woman, Betty. He knows her from when he used to surf in the 60s. She is still surfing enthusiastically and is older than me. A local woman surfer in her 50s! It's not a legend, she really exists; I talked to her on the phone yesterday. My friend's idea was that as A) a woman and B) a person of age she might be the one to help me learn when all else has failed. I hope so, sure I do, but even more than that she seems like such a cool person I'd like to get to know her. She sounded cool on the phone too. Anybody who's in her 50s and is not only surfing but "in school", as she explained to me, has got my vote.

Frankly I don't know other women my age and I am always looking for someone who's already been down the road I'm going and can give me some directions. Aging is a scary thing for all human beings but especially for women.

I know she'll try to help with the surfing when she can (given her busy schedule), but it may not work. "Surfing's easy," she said in our brief introductory conversation. "Anyone can surf. Just pop up. All you have to do is stand up."

In other words, she seems to be another one of those people who don't think, just do; and people who don't think cannot explain what to do to those who think. Got that? For her "just pop up" I have a million questions which she may not be able to answer. But having the answers is the only way I'll ever be able to do what, for her, is so simple. Or else it will help me figure out why I can't.

Meanwhile, I'll be back out at the beach this weekend, but it'll be a nonsurfing weekend, with more parties etc. In the summer at Rockaway, I'm finding out, every weekend is Memorial Day.

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