Crappy waves, crappy surfers

Summer Fridays seem to be shaping up like this: bad waves, bad surfers. Today was virtually a rerun of last Friday. I saw the same people out: the guy who looks like Jesus Christ, the young shaggy haired guy, the two Asian shortboarders (is there such a thing as an Asian longboarder? Is that a racist comment?), the Asian girl on the Blue board. I said hi to a couple of them; maybe I'll get to know them better and we'll be the Friday afternoon crew.

The other people out were children or bodyboarders. (No offense to bodyboarders.) None of the good surfers, none of those I've dignified here with initials, surf the crap waves. Why should they? When the waves are bad, the bad surfers come out. But I kinda like being out on days like this: once again I get the chance to be the best surfer in the water. I actually had a good time on crappy sectiony waves, which probably means I'm getting more relaxed and learning to have fun again. And I got my wave of the day, on which I was able to stand and ride for about four seconds---long enough to think, Hmmm, once I'm up what do I have to do to stay up? I got the feeling I could've prolonged the ride if I'd known what to do with my weight, where to shift it, or if I'd bent my knees more. I also got a second, shorter ride. Not bad for me!

In a way the injury I had to my left knee at the end of May was a good thing. It's not fully healed, it still is swollen and painful despite physical therapy, so it really lets me know when I'm using my left knee to get up! It's impossible to remain unaware, as I did before, of what I'm doing. The good part is, if the knee doesn't hurt, it means I must not have used it to get up.