The best surfer in the water
I usually don't go to the beach without any idea of what the waves are doing; it's way too far to go to waste a trip. The local surfcam was down, as was the phone-a-friend network. But today was a hot and beautiful day and I just wanted to be on the beach.
I'm glad I went. The waves were small and not too well formed, but there were lots of them. There weren't many people out; other than me, just young kids and boogie boarders. I was able to get lots of waves and ride, or nearly ride, a couple of them. In fact, I noticed I was the only one getting up. I had the unique and very enjoyable experience of being---today between 1:30 and 2:30 PM---the best surfer in the water.
I was able to ride across a wave for the first time instead of going straight! Of course, I somehow went right. All our waves here are lefts. I have no idea why I went right, as it was nothing I did consciously.
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