Waist high

Waves were bigger today than they have been most of the summer, waist to occasional chest (though as usual Surfline had its head up its butt undercalling it). I remembered M.'s advice to me that "you gotta go out in bigger waves". So I did, even though there were tons of people out, and it wasn't a problem at all. I don't blow my takeoffs so much anymore which is, of course, the main cause of wipeouts. I didn't do as well as I did yesterday in the small waves, though. I took off OK but had a hard time trying to stand up, as usual, and only got one ride. That's actually pretty good for me, but after yesterday, I thought I was about to do better. I am reminded once again that progress, if that's what it is, is nonlinear.

Later I hung out on the beach all day, at the central hangout spot, and it was fun. People were friendly and I felt really comfortable. Though the waves got better during the day and everyone was having fun, I didn't push myself to go back in. Glad I saved some energy cause it turned out there was another rockin' party to go to later! Like I said, every weekend's the Fourth of July around here.