Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Drum roll please...

Today the waves went down a notch, and I got in the water. I did manage some good takeoffs, but there were no rides, nothing even remotely resembling surfing. I fell immediately on standing up with no time to think or correct anything. When I did manage to stay up for more than a thirty-secondth of a second, the board just stopped moving, and the end result was, I fell. What the hell do I do to stop the board when I stand up? Maybe it's just that by the time I get up the wave is over?

All I know is, if I ever manage to get up, the board stops moving.

So, no one ride today. Maybe it's that there were long waits in between and not so many waves to go for. My average is about one in twenty (one ride for each twenty attempted) and I did not get twenty chances today. I had about ten.

But I have done it now. I have bought a new board. My third board in nearly four years. I truly, truly hope I have done the right thing, for the cost of this board was scandalous, and I will never disclose it, no matter what, even if you tear out my toenails.

If it doesn't work, I will cry. Then you can buy it off me for a scandalous price.

Drum roll please...I hope to christen the new board tomorrow a.m.

3 Comments:

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