Killer session
I know, I know...how can this post come after "surf moratorium"? But it does.
I had just called the not-as-bad surf instructor guy to schedule a lesson. I hadn't planned on surfing today, but took a late afternoon bike ride up to the boardwalk and saw a guy in on small waves. The monkey-see-monkey-do syndrome. The wind was strong from the wrong direction, the tide was at the wrong place, and yet it didn't look completely horrible. One foot lines were coming in.
It was hot and sunny and I wanted to get wet.
I had five rides! You would have to look pretty far back in this blog to see the last time I got more than one or two. I think it was December or January.
Why? How? Who can say? The surf goddesses decreed it, it was so.
Also, I was further back on the board than W. told me to be. That seemed to do the trick. I hate to say it, because he surfs so well, but he's just wrong. Surfing, like so much else in life, is about knowing when to listen to others and when to listen to yourself.
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