Wednesday, March 25, 2009

The (non) Surfer's Prayer

Dear Ocean,

Thank you for always being there, no matter what. I know that (almost) every day of my life you are offering me some sort of waves, waiting patiently for me to choose you. I love just looking at you even if I can't go in, watching your moods, your colors and light. Like on a day when I wake up at sunrise because I must get on a plane, and you are bathed in pink, and I see nice little lines and several boards bobbing in the water, and I know without even checking that there is some north in the wind and the waves would be fun to ride, and at the same time I know that if I squeeze in even one hour in the water there is a chance that I will miss my plane, and besides it won't be just one hour, it's getting in and out of the suit and taking a shower afterwards, so I can't chance it, but oh how I would like to, I look at the boards in the water and I'm already feeling what it would be like. It's good to know that I could have gone in today, even if I don't. It's good to know that when and if my life settles down to the point that I can grab a couple of hours of water time, you will welcome me back. I know it's been almost a month already, and I don't know where that month went, it flew by as it if were a moment; but I also know that you are not in a hurry, you are not going anywhere. Even when I can't see you out my window because I'm far away, I know you're still there. That knowledge sustains me. Wait for me. I will be with you as soon as I can.



Sunday, March 08, 2009

When time just stops

What is that song about time stopping? I can hear it but can't hear enough of it to remember what or who it is.

It goes like... "that perfect moment when time just stops..."

Actually I think it's "time just slips away..."

Who is that? What song?

Because that's what it was like today. I caught the waves perfectly and when I was riding it didn't feel like I was moving at all. It felt like time had stopped.

I was in perfect position and all I had to do was be there. Out of time.

Saturday, March 07, 2009

Back in New York

Today was my first day back surfing in New York. I arrived back in time for the biggest snowstorm of the winter---1 foot of snow on March 1st, and spent a week on my computer working. I looked out my window at waves and surfers and snow but they barely registered and I had no desire to go out; I just had so much work to do. I got up from my chair a week later and the temperature was 60 degrees.

So today I had to go surfing. Because it was so warm and sunny and Saturday, the water was packed.

I felt as if I had completely forgotten how to surf, plus I'm still a bit sore from skiing...but slowly it came back. I can still surf. Just, every time I got up on a wave today, there was somebody else on it, someone I hadn't seen going for it. So to avoid hitting them I'd have to bail and I didn't really get any rides. But yeah, I can still haul my ass up on a surfboard.

Damn that water is cold. I think it's still bottoming out. It hasn't turned around yet. Despite the sun and warm weather I had to get out early because my fingers were cold even in my best warmest gloves.