Wednesday, March 25, 2009

The (non) Surfer's Prayer

Dear Ocean,

Thank you for always being there, no matter what. I know that (almost) every day of my life you are offering me some sort of waves, waiting patiently for me to choose you. I love just looking at you even if I can't go in, watching your moods, your colors and light. Like on a day when I wake up at sunrise because I must get on a plane, and you are bathed in pink, and I see nice little lines and several boards bobbing in the water, and I know without even checking that there is some north in the wind and the waves would be fun to ride, and at the same time I know that if I squeeze in even one hour in the water there is a chance that I will miss my plane, and besides it won't be just one hour, it's getting in and out of the suit and taking a shower afterwards, so I can't chance it, but oh how I would like to, I look at the boards in the water and I'm already feeling what it would be like. It's good to know that I could have gone in today, even if I don't. It's good to know that when and if my life settles down to the point that I can grab a couple of hours of water time, you will welcome me back. I know it's been almost a month already, and I don't know where that month went, it flew by as it if were a moment; but I also know that you are not in a hurry, you are not going anywhere. Even when I can't see you out my window because I'm far away, I know you're still there. That knowledge sustains me. Wait for me. I will be with you as soon as I can.

Love,

Grandma

6 Comments:

At Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:36:00 AM, Blogger BunnyP said...

I've been silently following your blog since I first found it a few years ago. I've thoroughly enjoyed all the ups and downs and can totally related being a fellow female who took up surfing after 33 and lives very close to the beach. I read lots of surf blogs, magazines and books and I don't think I've read anything better than this post.

thank you for expressing what I feel every day when I see the Pacific.

 
At Monday, March 30, 2009 8:01:00 PM, Blogger Grandma said...

Hey, that's great to hear. We should meet up if I get near the Pacific again!

 
At Wednesday, April 01, 2009 7:16:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

you and i should have some tea.

 
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