Inaugural surf

In the interest of full disclosure, I am obliged to report that I sucked today.

It's because the waves were more than two feet. I still don't get it when the waves get over two feet. It's a whole different game.

Plus my gloves weren't warm enough and I had to quit early. My fingers actually hurt for a while afterwards.

The plus side was a guy I haven't seen since the summer took pity on me and was trying to help me out---offering me the best spot, telling me when to go. He finally had to conclude that I needed more help than he could offer. Sadly, he's right. It was embarrassing but I think I learned a little (about how much I suck).

Even more depressing (for me) is that L. has returned from a two week surf trip a much better surfer than she was---and than I am. This always happens with my surf buddies---sooner or later they surpass me and then it becomes difficult to surf together. L. is now up to eight foot waves. Ah, shit. I mean, Great!