A good day

I had to sit out the head-high+ waves we've had (reportedly---I wasn't around) this past weekend, but today was manageable. And very crowded!

Although I didn't get a lot of rides, the ones I got were very good. It was an excellent day, and here's why:

I surfed over by the jetty (i.e. the most crowded spot where the better surfers are) and was able to handle it well--getting my share of waves while not running over anyone or getting run over.

I am getting up earlier which means I'm making the drop while on my feet (yes, the waves were big enough today there was actually a drop) instead of getting up after making it. This is a new thing for me and today I did it without any problem and without even being conscious of it.

Every time I got up (and I am pretty sure I didn't use my knee) I stayed up. I was able to hold onto the waves (most of the time) to the end, even when they started closing out. I still need to work on holding on when the wave begins to close down (a challenge for anybody). Leaning forward, bending my knees, and turning the board toward the beach should help, I think. My balance has gotten much better.

Not least, it was a gorgeous sixty-degree sunny day! Those are limited this time of year.