Grandmas Gone Surfing
And the #1 reason to surf when you "can't"...
Is because you'll get out of practice.
I felt it today.
I had to go out, I couldn't stand it anymore. Though the waves were tiny, they were good, thanks to the wind direction.
It took me a while to remember what to do, but when I did, I had some absolutely perfect rides.
Oh, and then I had to listen to people talk about how legendary last Monday was. "Days like that don't come around very often..."
The #2 (or should it be #1) reason to surf when you "can't".
That's it, I am never missing a perfect day again. I will simply trust that if you surf on a day like that, everything else will just fall into place.
And I am making my deadline with hours to spare.
posted by Grandma @ 10/05/2008 08:31:00 PM
4 comments
4 Comments:
I also learned at age 47 and now surf most everyday, have actually competed in contest and won 3 trophies in the past 3 years, and ride a 5'10" shortboard,and have surfed overhead waves, so YES, older women can surf! Kudos to you, grandmas- I am from Florida!
Oh, and I am now 51!
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