Sunday, February 07, 2010

20 degrees, 20 people

This morning by 10 am there were at least 20 people out in the lineup.

It's February. It was 20 degrees.

We were all wave-starved, it was sunny, there was not much wind, there was a favorable Surfline forecast the night before that alerted the nonlocals, but still: 20 degrees.

I know I posted before about a 20 degree day that didn't faze me, but there's some kind of math that goes on between air and water temperatures that makes not all 20 degree days equal. Maybe it's air temp plus water temp plus wind speed. Does anyone have the equation?

Today the water was in the 30s. That's about as cold as it gets here. It was goddamn cold.

Yet I managed to stay out for over two hours, which is what I do in summer!


Why, you ask? Is it that I was having so much fun?

Hell, no! It's that I wasn't---and then I was like, I'm out here in frickin 20 degrees, I better be having fun! So I kept trying, but for at least half of the time I was really so cold it affected my surfing. The waves were a tad challenging, but not that big and not that hard. It was the freezing my ass off that threw me.

The more I froze, the more I kept trying to have fun. Finally, I had to say, This is not worth getting hypothermia.

Nothing that happened out in the water could compare to the bliss of a hot shower immediately followed by crawling naked into bed under a down comforter, nestling into pillows warmed by the bedroom radiator and the afternoon sun.

10 Comments:

At Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:01:00 AM, Blogger dave rich said...

Hey!!!!! When were you here in my great state again????

You should've told me! I would have loved to put a name to a face and share a wave or two...

Im glad you scored here and got to see some of our phenominal hospitality in the water... in Texas.. we are all stoked just to be surfing. There are a few places that will get you some angry looks if they dont know you but we just write off these wanna-be cali fake locals and surf anyways.

Next time your down... throw a comment on my blog if your comfortable with that.

Anyways... its great to see you still surfing! Im outa here in August for the next 3 years!!!!! Yeaa!!!!!!!!

 
At Saturday, August 13, 2011 11:18:00 AM, Blogger helouise said...

Hi my name is Helouise and I live in SA.(Mosselbay-Garden Route. I started surfing at the age of 41 and will be 50 next year. At this stage I am the only women surfing in Mosselbay. The women are slowly getting into it. You must come ant visit me in SA and we can do a surftrip together. What do you think?
Helouse

 
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