With the jetty jocks

Today didn't look as big as yesterday at first. In fact when I first checked the waves I was disappointed. I almost thought it was too small. But it was actually as big as yesterday, and conditions were choppier, just to add some challenge.

Plus, as usual after a good day and when waves have been forecast to be better than they are, it was crowded. But I was feeling confident enough to paddle out to the main spot by the jetty, which, as I've said, is traditionally where the best surfers are (AKA jetty jocks, as least when they're male). I've been able to handle myself there well on the 2 foot days, but today was taking it up a notch.

And I proved myself able to handle the four footers as well. Yeah, I had to pull off some waves, and I didn't go on the biggest ones. But as I was out there I realized I was confident in my ability to handle a crowd in waves of this size. It wasn't scary, and there were no collisions or close calls. I got my share of waves (not by taking off on the same wave with others, as the jocks do, but by waiting til no one else was going, usually after they'd all been taken in by a set).

It was a good feeling to realize I've gotten to this point where I am able to hold my own at the jetty. That said, I didn't get any great rides. In fact, once I got up I either fell or didn't really go anywhere. I think I fell because on the bigger waves I instinctively lean back, and then of course I fall backwards off the board. I gotta work on leaning forward on the bigger faster ones. Either that, or I am getting up too quickly.