Friday, August 01, 2008

Where have I been?

I have had a lousy summer cold for three weeks. After the last post, I attempted to go out again the next day. But the waves were head high and I felt even sicker. I gave myself permission to opt out of the session and be sick.

There've been no waves to speak of, anyway.

Today, with ankle high waves, was my first day back in the water. It was sunny and hot and so there were about twelve desperate people out. Including a friend of mine who appeared to be on crack and so was highly entertaining, spewing bodily fluids everywhere and generally acting like an eight year old retarded child. Yeah you. If you don't like my blog, stop reading it!

I had a great time, catching lots of waves and rides. Of course they only lasted one and a half seconds. It felt so good just to be back in the water.

I proved two things: One, I can still surf. Two (I had on a new suit): any bathing suit top, including one specifically marketed for surfers, can fall down in any conditions, even one foot waves. Why can't someone engineer something better?

3 Comments:

At Tuesday, August 05, 2008 5:03:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Glad you are back. I was getting a little worried after hearing about all those people getting caught in rip currents in New York. Your blog is such an inspiration to me. I learned to surf in 2003 and it took several years for me to be able to stand up regularly. In the last 4 months my progress has improved tremendously and a lot of it has to do with not giving up. If you ever come down to South Florida I would be happy to show you around the breaks.

 
At Tuesday, August 12, 2008 5:03:00 PM, Blogger Julie said...

Hmm I don't know if you like their style but the ONLY bathing suit tops I will wear for surfing are the ones made by Patagonia. They actually stay on. Really. Unlike every other brand and style I've tried besides 1-piece suits. Even though they cost waaaay more than I like to pay, I do it anyway.

 
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