Tuesday, July 15, 2008

After the popup

Just a quick note (I'm exhausted, and fought a head cold to go out surfing today, but glad I did) to say I'm getting my popups and drops most of the time, it's what happens after that's frustrating. Staying on the wave, turning, keeping the balance.

It was great, considering how shitty I felt, to get a lot of compliments on my surfing today! (From non-Mafia members, naturally.) I actually heard from someone a compliment I've given to others such as W. (that's you, V.): "You paddle so well, I've seen you catch waves I never thought you could catch." A number of people have remarked on my paddling. I owe it all (mostly) to W. And someone who said "You're out every time I'm out" said he has seen me make great progress. I thought my rides today were short and crappy, but he thought they were good and pointed out that the closeouts meant no one got long rides. I actually got complimented on my drops! Me! Surfing with a cold, yet! But I knew I could do it and I did.

Hope I feel good enough to go out tomorrow.

7 Comments:

At Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:30:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I think your struggles may be the result of surfing crappy breaks. How about a surf camp in a nice tropical locale? I think you'll have a lot more fun.

 
At Friday, July 18, 2008 5:42:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Grandma: I haven't read many of your earlier entries, so I have no idea if you've done a surf camp, but I would agree that you should try it. Surf Diva in La Jolla, CA. is great and very affordable. I'd been surfing unsucessfully for a while, and after Surf Diva, I improved dramatically.

 
At Tuesday, July 29, 2008 11:03:00 PM, Blogger Rebecca Olive said...

"I owe it all (mostly) to W."

You don't owe it to anyone but yourself!

"And someone who said "You're out every time I'm out" said he has seen me make great progress."

snaps to you!

 
At Saturday, August 02, 2008 8:22:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Your persistence is what counts and is an encouragement I'm sure to many. Just keep at it as I know you are making great progress. Keep building a solid foundation with the basics and the rest will come in time.

I agree with the comment about garbage breaks but if you time things correctly on the east coast you can certainly catch some nice clean lines. Depends of course on swell direction, tide, sand bars and wind.

I'm out west now but grew up surfing down south in NJ so I know all about beach breaks. Heading back I hope to Sept. Wish you were in NJ as it would be cool to paddle out with you.

 
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