Flat. Not.

I wasn't even going to check the waves today because Surfline called it flat, except that so many days that Surfline called flat were such fun, so I did.

And guess what.

Tiny clean little waves, and I got in on the last hour or so.

My Robert August, my real board, is back and got wet for the first time in three months, yay! I forgot how good it was. Yeah, I did OK on my backup board, which just shows how much better I've gotten; but this one catches waves so much easier. I just have to catch them earlier than I've gotten used to doing with the backup board.

So I got up and riding many times, and some of those times my timing was such that I was actually riding the wave instead of just catching it, popping up and not going anywhere. Riding the wave, as my surf advisors keep reminding me, is what it's all about. I think it's all in the timing; I wasn't really doing anything different on those waves where I stood up and stalled out than on the ones where I rode waves, except for the timing. (As far as I know; I could be wrong.)And we're talking miliseconds but they seem to make all the difference. If you're off by a milisecond there doesn't seem to be a lot you can do to make it right---or, a lot that I, at my current level, can do, anyway.

What fun! I loved that I was by myself for a long time because the others (who didn't listen to Surfline) were over by the jetty and I was getting as many or more waves than they did. I hoped they were watching!

Tomorrow's forecast: "Flat."