Re-Entry
I'm back in New York, kind of discombobulated, but re-entry was smooth. Even the drive back was pleasant, 85 mph on the Jersey turnpike, playing Catch Up with the pickup with North Carolina plates (I eventually lost him) and singing at the top of my lungs with full confidence that no one could hear me.
Made it back just in time for a friend's birthday celebration. Ignoring the mountains of piled up cat poop til tomorrow, I kicked off the summer with my first frozen drinks at the summer-only bar. Sweet.
Then, sleeping very late, but still up in time for some tasty waves. First surf of the summer---ahhhh. The crowds! How I love to hate them. We've all now been restricted to a small surfing beach instead of being able to stretch out, and that goes til Labor Day.
I did OK on the waves, which were bigger than they've been for a while. I started out taking off too early, which I often do when the waves get bigger than two feet, but once I was able to get over that and take off later, I was good. Taking off later in general than I've gotten in the habit of doing is key.
4 Comments:
That's interesting that you say taking off later in big waves works better for you. I find just the opposite. I have to paddle a lot sooner, faster, and be further back on the board or I pearl every time.
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