Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Surf haiku

Over by the rocks
Wave hogs get ride after ride
Leaving us no scraps.

I too have a dream
One day we will surf in peace
Sharing all God’s waves.

One knee on the board
I struggle to stand up
Ass up, hands on rails.

Popup? What popup?
How can anyone pop up
On a speeding wave?

I’ve tried for five years
I’m old, cold, wet and tired
When can I give up?

Miss the wave again
Spray in the face worse than pie
Humiliation

3 Comments:

At Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:38:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Don't give up Grandma
You have a passion for surf
It shines in your blog

 
At Tuesday, April 29, 2008 4:40:00 PM, Blogger surfchick88 said...

I've been reading your blog from the beginning over the last few days. I can totally relate to your alternating frustration and exhilaration. I'm 44 and first learned to surf 5 years ago. You are not alone in your difficulties. I consider myself a pretty athletic person, but I would say that surfing is the hardest sport I've ever tried to master. You also have the disadvantage of surfing a beach filled with aggro locals. I completely admire your tenacity under those circumstances.

I'd like to point you in the direction of 2 surf videos that I find immensely helpful: Corky Carroll's Learn to Surf and Richard Schmidt's also Learn to Surf. Both have a certain amount of extraneous material that you already know, but they each have excellent sections on turning and other essentials. One thing I found particularly helpful in the Carroll video is that he says make sure that you absolutely know beyond a shadow of a doubt that you are IN THE WAVE before you try to stand up. For years I was standing up too soon and once I adhered to this tidbit of advice my progress has improved immensely. The other thing he tells you about turning is that it is basically a matter of weighting and unweighting the board and is not really about moving your feet.

I want to encourage you not to ever give up, and if you ever come down to South Florida, let me know, I'd love to meet up.

 
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