Thursday, June 12, 2008

What it's all been for

What it's all been for, five years of struggle: this day.

One perfect day when it all comes together: Catching waves; popping up (really), getting up low and staying low; riding waves (really) the way they are meant to be ridden, with the power of the wave behind me, turning the board to go the way the wave wants it to go. It's fun in a way surfing has never been fun before. This is, finally, the real thing. I can do it.

And I do it again and again, I am a surfer; and it may evaporate tomorrow, I may backslide again, but today it is perfect.

In my mind somewhere is the image of the way I've seen others ride waves for five years, and I know I am doing the same thing. Surfing.

The next day, other people post eloquently on the local surf message board about this day. I am not the only one who felt it; though some feel the need to qualify their joy by saying "best small day," still what they are saying is best day in memory.

At the end of the day I feel exhausted, happily; I think I'll sleep early, but I can't sleep so easily; I'm still thinking about how it felt today. I'm too stoked to sleep.

And Surfline called it flat.

8 Comments:

At Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:30:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I've recently had a couple of those days. That is awesome!

 
At Saturday, June 14, 2008 4:36:00 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I knew this day would come for you. It was only a matter of time. And I'm excited for you like you can't know.

Right now, I'm trying to recover from a knee injury. Haven't surfed for two weeks. I'm not sure when I'll surf again, but I'm patient. I'll just keep reading your posts watching your progress.

 
At Sunday, June 15, 2008 8:34:00 PM, Blogger Mick said...

Well done "Granny". God I feel bad saying that seeing as I'm older, but still.. so pleased for you.
BTW I've given you a little write up on my blog.

 
At Monday, June 16, 2008 3:37:00 PM, Blogger Julie said...

Possibly the best surf post I've ever read. :)

 
At Tuesday, June 24, 2008 3:58:00 PM, Blogger Earthsurfer said...

I started surfing at 56 - now, 3 years later I'm still struggling to consistently get up, but I'm not giving up! Thanks for your comments about Las Olas. I really want to go to some warm water to get more experience in the water (I live in NoCAL) and want some instruction, but all surf camps seem the same ($$$ and not especially intended for us OBOBs, - old Broads on Boards. Any other suggestions for a surf vacation with some instruction?

 
At Thursday, June 26, 2008 7:55:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Earthsurfer,

Go to the Corky Carroll Surf School in Costa Rica. I went there in 2003. Its a great place. I went there when I was 40. Its in Nosara, a cool town on the Guacanaste peninsula.

 
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