Curl vs. lip

What a weekend. I went out every day on small waves. But there was plenty of drama out of the water. K's vendetta continues and her efforts to alienate me from the entire community haven't lessened. For the most part, she's succeeded, as I've said, because of the group dynamic of surfing: sticking together takes precedence over everything. If one person hates you, everyone hates you, even if they don't know you. If one person says something bad about you, everyone is honor bound to believe it and act as if it were true out of loyalty. And these are adults? Well, screw it. I'm not going anywhere and I will be on the beach all summer. If it gets any uglier---more than hate looks and insults and name calling, like threats to my person or property---I'll deal with it with the cops. I hope it doesn't. But I can see it's a possibility. Sadly, that's also part of the culture of surfing: locals chasing out people they perceive as not entitled to waves by any means necessary.

Yesterday I went out late and was tired, but had a surprisingly good time. A couple of people even complimented me on getting rides, and even if that was out of pity, I'll take it. Not everyone agreed. C. was particularly vicious in his criticism, but then, given our history, that's what I'd expect. The most honest assessment, I think, came from others: I do get up, but I don't do anything remotely resembling a popup. Although I try, from what they say it is very unattractive to watch. Heard the phrase "hauling ass?" That's what I do: haul myself up ass first, then, if I'm still on the board, try to raise the rest of my body. Funny, I don't really think I use my knee that much any more, or if I do I'm not aware of it. But even if I don't, it's not a popup. It's not just that it's so slow; it's completely different. Part of the problem is I'm confused about what body parts and muscles you use for a real popup. I tend to just think about my feet, and I do get them on the board one way or another, but along the way my ass, head, shoulders, and arms just kind of arrange themselves any old way. And it's not pretty.

Yesterday there were probably twenty-five people in the water. I was accused of "dropping in", which is funny; first of all, every single person out there was dropping in any time they could, including five little boys who magically arrayed themselves in a row in a kind of parallel line up outside the main line up and so were in the way of anyone else who tried to take off. Second, would that I had the skills to drop in.

Today was so different, only me and one other person. He was catching plenty of little waves and rides and I only got a few. Once he left, I got the catbird spot, right next to the jetty, where I never usually get to go. I got to see, and feel, why this is such a good spot. The wave curls so sweetly there. There's actually a curl and not just a lip. So you can see exactly where and when the wave is breaking and position yourself, you know? I learned quickly to keep my eye on that spot where the wave began to curl, and how far down from there to be and how much time before it traveled down to me. That meant that catching waves was mad fun, and even though I didn't get any rides today (the rule of every other session), I still had a good time. Further down from there, at the end of the surfing section where I usually go, you're looking at the lip forming over your head, and the ony question is how long before it dumps down on you. When it breaks, it's breaking right on your head, not giving you any shoulder to slide into it.

Chances to surf that spot are slim to nonexistent, especially in summer, but I hope to do it again. I didn't get to stay out long enough today because I had the 3/2 on for the first time this season and it wasn't warm enough.