Stroke for stroke with the Malibu boys
Today my presence was required in downtown LA at ten a.m., but I figured there would still be time for surfing this afternoon. However, the proceedings went on longer than expected. I cut out somewhat ungracefully at 2:40, thinking that’d give me plenty of time to get to Topanga by four. Wouldn’t you know I got lost? I still don’t know how it happened. But I ended up lost in a neighborhood where no one spoke English, and by the time I got myself straightened out and to the beach, it was 4:40.
The waves were about the same as two days ago, but there were fewer people. No women, only fix or six barely postadolescent boys. They were talking about papers they had to write for school! Of course no one spoke to me, but they weren’t unfriendly either.
I noticed with some satisfaction that as we were all paddling out next to each other I had no trouble keeping up with the boys, prompting me to create this new Mastercard commercial:
Roundtrip airfare, JFK to LAX: $0 (paid by company)
Roundtrip ticket for dog: $0
Car rental: $0
Nine nights in LA area hotels: $0
Surfboard rental: $200 (not paid by company)
Going stroke for stroke with a Malibu boy half my age: PRICELESS
The above refers to paddling a surfboard only, but you already knew that.
These well-shaped waves have really brought home to me that I can do everything well except stand up. There’s nothing wrong with my paddling or wave-catching abilities.
There was one, maybe two, waves today where I did let go of the rails, and on one of them I stayed up on the board a little bit---by which I mean less than one second. Still, that fraction of a second was palpable.
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