What are we doing here?

4:30-6:30

The law of unintended consequences states that if you blow off something you were supposed to do to go surf (especially if it involved money or a commitment to friends) the surf will suck. How many examples could I give: P.’s book party, S.’s show, etc.

No doubt I was the only person in New York City blowing off the premiere of the new Lars van Trier movie at the Film Festival for one-foot surf. It might not have been so bad if it wasn’t high tide, but it was.

It was one of the few days I’ve actually considered not going in after getting all the way there. But as I was getting onto the beach another guy was making a similar calculation.

I followed him and noticed he passed up the jetty for the Box. So I go in the Box. But it was only marginally better. Nevertheless the light and water were beautiful and it was the closest to “just enjoying being in the water” that I’ve been for a long time. I was momentarily glad I hadn’t gone to the movie.

The Chinese guy I’ve seen before smiled at me and I said “What are we doing here?” and he said “Communing with nature and getting cold.” And that was about it.