We skip over the first two years; here's my first ride

Monday, September 19th, 2005

2:30-5:30

I stood up. I rode a wave! Yes I did! It was the first wave I got today and it was the best wave of my life. After that it didn’t really matter what I did but I got one more wave that I rode.

I don’t know how I did it. Don’t ask.

The waves were one foot. It was a perfect hot sunny day, and the water was gorgeous, warm and clear. I was out in shorts and a bikini top and there was almost nobody out. I was Queen of the Jetty for the day.

That guy Ron was out with his dogs. I haven’t seen him since Fourth of July when he gave me three dollars to buy beer and then disappeared. It was great that he was there and even though he didn’t see my two rides he saw me get up a couple times and he was greatly encouraging. He was giving me tips (nothing I didn’t know already) in the water and then we talked for a few minutes when I finally had to get out because I was cold.

I kind of lost track of time and when I got out it was 5:30, an hour more than I usually stay in. It didn’t seem that long.

Later I took my dog Doogs for a walk on the beach that turned into a run. She ran like she used to when she was ten years younger. Ears flapping in the wind, she ran all the way to Arverne (25 blocks). I didn’t think I’d see her run like that again, not in her fifteenth summer. It was like something happened to both of us today to release us from the laws of gravity.