What a joy...

to be able to get up and go out in front of your house and surf! That’s what I did today. I’m so glad we rented this beach house. The waves were only one foot, but the wind was crapping it up and making it choppy and sectiony. I was out with only one person, an old guy who was much worse than me. I got a ride on my first wave. Later I was up long enough to notice that while my front leg was bent, my back leg was not. I think I need to work on that. After a while it got even more windy and crappy. I got out and saw C. on the boardwalk and really talked to him for the first time. Thinking back on it, it was the kind of rambling conversation where I probably sounded like an idiot, but I enjoyed it at the time.