Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Is this how it's supposed to feel?

My first day out, after the first ride. One foot waves again. Of course I’m not going to be catching a ride on every wave, but I did get up and did get a couple rides, at least short ones. I also fell off and got an inordinate amount of water up my nose---because I wasn’t expecting to fall? There was one wave where I got up and immediately felt as if I was standing still on land, even though I was moving. I mean, I had to kind of check and see! I guess that for just that second, I was so perfectly balanced that riding required no effort at all. Is that how it’s supposed to feel? All the time? I’ve never felt that before.

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