Sunday, October 02, 2005

Surfing drunk?

3-5:40 PM
The usual place

Surfing demands the utmost of your physical and mental abilities. If you’re not at peak, you can’t surf. Or at least I can’t. No point in trying.

I don’t understand those guys who surf (or say they do) when they’re drunk or stoned. How good do you have to be to be still able to do it drunk?

(Side note: I am writing this on a nonsurfing day, sitting on ********* Beach, as I write this the next day, a nonsurfing day, a day when I’m just glad to be in the water without a board; and there is a guy close to me, an old guy, sleeping in just his underwear, and the underwear has holes in it. Gross.)

Bottom line: I can’t even try to surf unless I’m 100%, and even then I can’t do it. And so I knew I shouldn’t have tried to go out today...

So even though the waves were small and good, I wasted them. I hardly caught anything. I did try to get up when I caught them but I was using my left knee. Is this progress---I used to use my right knee? But even if I managed to get up by cheating this way, I couldn’t stay up. Once I got both feet on facing forwards---? Only once did I stay up more than a half second and that was because I was up long enough to remember to bend my knees.

The only time I even got rides were not when I used my left knee; they were when I concentrated on my right foot and knee and slid the foot across the board to get it turned before planting it on the board. And those times I did not move or use my left foot or knee at all that I was aware of---I think my left foot stayed where it was when I was lying on my board.

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