Big wave day (for me)

Today, one day post-the-first-hurricane-wave-day-of-the-season, I saw my former friend on the boardwalk, the one who's only been surfing a couple of years but we're at the same level, and she said the waves were too big for her. From the boardwalk, they looked about five feet at most.

Usually, if they're too big for her, it's a pretty sure thing they're too big for me. Usually, I'd have turned around and gone in. But I didn't.

I went out, and my very first wave I caught and rode! It surprised the hell out of me, but I remember being so pleased and thinking, Oh, I've made so much progress that these waves no longer seem big. Because they didn't. I also enjoyed the greater power of the bigger wave.

So I got a lot more, and was really comfortable and confident. It's the first time I've felt that way in such big (for me) waves. All in all a hellaciously fun day.