Sunday, June 28, 2009

Applause!

This morning, wonderful things happened:

I went surfing the first time this year without a wetsuit, woo-hoo!

Perhaps as a result of shedding the suit, I surfed great.

I caught waves perfectly. One was so perfect, and lasted so long, and was so well executed, that one of the locals (a friend, all around good guy, and experienced surfer) hooted for me as I exited the wave. He's seen and heard my struggles to learn for years.

"You're really getting good," he said.

"Nice drops."

Two words I thought I'd never hear applied to me!

posted by Grandma @ 6/28/2009 05:48:00 PM   1 comments

1 Comments:

At Tuesday, July 07, 2009 7:32:00 PM, Blogger dave rich said...

Im very excited to see you still surfing! Good for you! From just reading a few of your posts it seems you are now lightyears ahead in your skill and congrats for that too!!!

Your experience surfing in Cali is the same I have only heard about and witnessed in "down south" line-ups when the Cali kids cant learn to chill the **** out. A few do and they are always cool but more often than not, you will see some a-hole just out there like its a quicksilver competition and his sponsorship depends on it. Reason numero uno I wont go surf Cali. They can keep it.

So I havent hit the water in over 1 year! Im so desperate it doesnt even hurt anymore. Ive put so much effort and time into just staying focused on my big escape that I havent noticed the time passing so fast. The last waves I rode were in March of 08... sad. Thats ok.. I aim to change that very soon. And... the plan is to quit and drive out of this country for a few years come june of 2010.

Anyways... sorry for the rant. Its very good to see you still surfing and blogging. I will have to go back now and try and catch up :)

 

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