And now, the popup

I surfed today, yesterday, the day before, and I'm going to composite them because they were all similar...all great. I caught plenty of waves, whether by skill or chance, and on quite a few of them I did the popup. I mean the real thing. It feels so different, there's little chance of confusing it with the other way. Like everyone has been telling me...get both your feet on the board at the same time. And when I do that, I know it. I'd have to have a videotape to tell if I've done the jump everyone says to do, but somehow I pop up, and at the right time, and once I'm up I usually don't fall---or haven't these three days. I'm not turning, because when I look at where I've gone it's not far to the left or right, so that I have yet to figure out. But I'm getting the power of the wave behind me somehow.

I don't do it everytime. When I don't do it I know right away, because I've got a scrape on my knee (not surf related) and a scrape on my ankle (from dragging it on the board) and I feel it if they contact the sandy, waxy board. Ouch. Also I suspect that you're not supposed to get wax on your toenails if you do it right, correct? Sadly my red polish was full of dirty surf wax at the end of each session.

I don't by any means think that I've "got it" or that I won't have those days when I go back a couple of years. But three good days in a row, woo-hoo!

What a fun weekend, in and out of the water. Very little to put into the burgeoning annals of "Is anyone normal at this beach?" (Oh, wait, that's another blog.) C.'s still crazed. He was surfing so close to me our boards nearly touched and was so abusive and out of control other people asked me behind his back: What is wrong with that guy? Not cool. Someone needs to get laid and for once it's not me.