Grandmas Gone Surfing
Back to the Blue
I'm so glad now that I didn't sell my old board, my 8-6 Blue. Any money I would have made is irrelevant compared to the option of having a backup board. I didn't really think I would need it but now I do.
So I went out on my old board, which had grown cobwebs. And I still don't like that board. Waves were manageable today, only about three feet with a negligible paddle out. I didn't have any problem with my takeoffs (which I used to have all the time with that board) and after three or four tries I could get my feet in the right spots to ride. But I didn't do any popups today. I guess I just wasn't feeling confident enough, or something. I did get rides, which are a lot harder to get on this than on my new board.
I can deal with this board, I guess, for the two weeks or so it will take to get my new one fixed, if it even can be fixed, which can't be determined until it's seen by a surfboard doctor. That involves a drive to a place I've never been which will take place next week.
Really, the taking off and balancing are easy comparing to the popping. I did, actually, thinking back, get one popup today---but then I landed in completely the wrong spot and fell off immediately.
More tomorrow.
posted by Grandma @ 8/24/2007 06:37:00 PM
5 comments
5 Comments:
Hi, Connie from San Diego here. I'm sorry to hear about your board. I can only imagine how heartbreaking that would have been to see your board with a big gash in it. I hope you find someone who can repair it properly. It's good you have a back-up board.
I went surfing at Tourmaline on Thursday. The surf wasn't too hot, but I had a great time anyway. Any day surfing is a great time in my book. Even if the waves are poor, I'm getting practice and getting stronger, and I just love everything about being out in the water on a board -- the feeling of going over a wave, the sound of the water lapping under the board.
There was one sort of older woman surfer there -- she may have been in her 40s, I'd guess. She was very good. Of course there are a lot of older guys out there. Most of the people are very nice and encouraging. I actually haven't met any assholes there, except one on the beach with a group of his friends who asked me "you're going to show us how to do it?" I'm sure he was trying to get a laugh out of his group of friends.
It's amazing how some jerks feel fine insulting someone because of their age. But there are enough really nice people to make up for that. It's funny because when I'm out there I still feel like the teenage girl I was when I first started surfing -- obviously I don't look that way. I think it really surprises people when they see me catch and ride a wave.
I really like your blog -- you're a good writer and it's fun to read about the experiences of a woman surfer in my age range. I admire you for taking up surfing at a later age. I don't know if I would have had it in me to start at an older age, and in cold water to boot.
Hey, you should head over to Hawaii -- you'd love it. There's one break at Waikiki I'd recommend -- Queen's. It's not the typical mushy Waikiki break crowded with tourists. It breaks further out and has nice shape. They hold contests there, even.
The wave is kind of gentle and goes for a long way. It's a bit of a paddle out, but in Hawaii, you can usually find a channel to paddle out in where the waves aren't constantly breaking.
The best part is how beautiful it is. The water is so warm and so clear. You can see the reef underneath and the occasional fish and sea turtle. The only downside there is the long walk from parking your car and the crowds. I didn't want to carry my board from my car, so I just rented a big tanker board like they have there -- but hey, they catch waves easily. You can also go out really early in the morning to avoid some of the crowds. Here's a link to it, that has some photos:
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/North_America/USA/Hawaii/Oahu/queens/index.html
If you went there, you could surf for hours everyday and not get cold. It's a slow wave, too, so you have time to get up, turn, etc. I could recommend some places to stay if you decide to go some day. I hope to move back to Hawaii in the not-too-distant future.
Okay, hang in there and happy surfing!
Connie
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