POOP, no, shit, no, crap
Today was my first time in the water in nearly a month. At first I thought I had completely forgotten how to surf, which would be only natural after such a long hiatus, and thought I was doomed to have a POOP (pathetically out of practice) session. But it only took about fifteen minutes of adjusting to today's waves before I was poop no longer.
After that I got lots of waves and lots of rides all the way to the beach, no problem. I stayed out of the way of the bearlike man (BM) next to me. It felt glorious to be in the ocean again and to swallow saltwater; saltwater, heavens it's tasty (SHIT).
And waiting for waves, I had lots of leisure to consider the landscape all around me, with unsold and unfinished condominiums on nearly every corner. Condos really are pollution (CRAP)!
That's all for today.
5 Comments:
So glad you are back. I was beginning to think you had abandoned the blog. I was wondering, at your surf break, can you surf at high tide? Because where I am at, high tide is impossible because the waves are breaking right on the shore, unless the winds are coming from the west, which is rare.
use the force kook
u dont know the power of the dark side
Whose bearlike man?
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